Recipe of the week: Stem-to-root fare: Saving veggie scraps from the compost pile

“Modern chefs have long embraced a nose-to-tail approach to meat,” said Julia Moskin in The New York Times. But recently they’ve also been looking at the plant kingdom with a more “predatory eye.” Taking a cue from pre-supermarket-era cooks, they are finding uses beyond stock for the stalks, rinds, peels, stems, and seeds that most of us toss in the trash.

Those who’ve embraced “stem-to-root” cooking might pickle or puree watermelon rind, shave broccoli stalks into a tasty salad, or braise the thick ribs of chard or other greens until wonderfully tender. (Kale, unfortunately, has ribs that are too fibrous for eating). “Using up everything satisfies some of the same urges that fuel the desire to be a better cook.” Give it a try; you might find that the flavors you discover are rewards in themselves.

Recipes of the week

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White gazpacho with watermelon rind

Adapted from Ronna Welsh, Purple Kale Kitchenworks

¾ cup blanched, slivered almonds

1 cup loosely packed parsley or mint leaves, or a combination

1 stalk celery, cut into chunks

1 dozen cherry tomatoes

1 clove garlic

1½ cups bread cubes, like ciabatta or sourdough, hard crusts removed

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 lbs cucumbers, preferably thin-skinned types like lemon or English (about 4)

8 cups cubed watermelon rind, pale pink and green parts, hard skin removed

1 tbsp sherry vinegar or rice wine vinegar

1 tbsp salt

In a food processor, combine almonds, herbs, celery, tomatoes, garlic, bread, and oil. Puree until smooth. Transfer to a

large bowl.

If using thin-skinned cucumbers, cut in chunks. If using thick-skinned ones, peel and seed, then cut in chunks. Working in batches if necessary, combine cucumbers, watermelon rind, vinegar, and salt in processor. Puree until smooth. Whisk together well with the other puree. Taste, and adjust salt and vinegar if needed. For a smoother texture, puree in blender, in batches.

Chill until very cold, at least 2 hours or overnight. Taste for salt before serving. Serves 8 to 12.

Broccoli stalks with lemon

1 large lemon

1 lb broccoli stalks, thick peels trimmed off

1 ripe avocado (optional)

1 chunk Parmigiano-Reggiano, at least 3 oz

1 small ripe red chile, cut into thin rings (optional)

Extra virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and cracked black pepper

Grate zest from lemon and set aside. Cut lemon in half. Using vegetable peeler, shave broccoli stalks into paper-thin ribbons and transfer to bowl. Squeeze lemon juice over broccoli, toss well, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours, until crisp.

Divide broccoli on plates. If using avocado, pit and thinly slice, then divide on top of broccoli. Using vegetable peeler, shave a few thin slices of cheese onto each plate. Scatter a few rings of chile, if using, and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon zest. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.