Feature

Rosado: Spain’s tricky rosé

A bad rosado goes down “like a fat splat of overripe fruit,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times.

Now that Americans have finally gotten over their aversion to pink-hued wines, “some discrimination is in order,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. I love a good rosé, too, but a Times tasting of rosados from Spain showed how inconsistent this family can be. A bad rosado goes down “like a fat splat of overripe fruit”; the best are fascinating.

2010 Parés Baltà Ros de Pacs ($11). A great value, this “snappy and refreshing” wine has “stony” mineral flavors topped by a strawberry aroma.

2010 Campos de Enanzo Navarra Garnacha Rosado ($12). Rosés made from garnacha grapes are often overpowering. This one is marvelously “dry and steely.”

2000 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia ($24). Aged a decade, this coppery-hued rosado is an “unmistakable classic,” with “coconut, nut, and mineral flavors.”

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