Fiano: Enjoying a renaissance

Among the many “ancient” grapes that are contributing to a renaissance for Italian whites, “the most interesting to me is the fiano,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Fiano is unusually versatile. “At base, it has a smoky, nut-like, spicy quality that I find very attractive, along with winning mineral flavors.” Yet it can also provide

“clean, cold refreshment” when the occasion calls.

2007 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino Radici ($22). This complex fiano is “smoky, with a faint taste of honey, yet fresh and lively.”

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2008 Luigi Maffini Kràtos, IGT Paestum ($20). This rich fiano is “bright and tangy,” with “lingering flavors of citrus and herbs.”

2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino ($21). The youngest fiano in our top three is “ripe yet refreshing.”