I like to say I love Austrian Rieslings, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But after a recent blind tasting, I realized what I really love is the idea of them. Recent vintages vary by year, region, and producer. The ones I love are dry, structured wines with “stony, pure” mineral flavors. The three below are “phenomenally refreshing,” with textures “that feel so good in the mouth you simply do not want to stop drinking.”
2008 Graf Hardegg Niederösterreich ($19). Our panel’s favorite was also the best value, a “tangy, energetic, and plain delicious” Riesling.
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