Recipe of the week: Adobo: A bold kick for a succulent steak

In Mexico, you just can’t get away from adobo, said Roberto Santibañez and JJ Goode in Truly Mexican (Wiley). A “thick, boldly flavored chile puree” that comes in countless variations, it’s used from Oaxaca to Mexico City to bring out the best in grilled, roasted, and stewed meats.

The common denominator in every adobo is one or more varieties of dried chiles—each chosen “for its color, flavor, and body rather than its heat.” From there, the ingredients vary according to region and personal taste. Mexican cooks no doubt have been rubbing meats with chiles for many centuries, but give the Spanish some credit too: It was the garlic, clove, cumin, cinnamon, and other spices that the conquistadores brought “that made adobos so rich with complex flavors.”

In the recipe below, a three-chile adobo is rounded out with a variety of other spices. Used as a marinade, it gives a simple skirt steak a heavenly flavor.

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Recipe of the week

Carne adobada

(Grilled adobo-marinated skirt steak)

2 lbs skirt steak, cut into four 8- to 9-inch pieces

1 tsp fine salt or 2 tsp kosher salt

½ cup three-chile adobo (below)

About 1 tbsp mild olive oil or vegetable oil

Pat steaks dry, season with salt, then coat generously with adobo. Let marinate in refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours. Heat grill or grill pan over medium-high heat. Lightly oil grill and cook steaks 3 to 5 minutes on each side for medium-rare, depending on thickness. Let steaks rest 5 minutes before slicing for tacos or serving whole. Serves 4.

Adobo de tres chiles (Three-chile adobo)

Also works as a rub for lamb chops or chicken breasts, or to flavor a braise.

1 oz cascabel chiles (5)

1 oz pasilla chiles (3)

¾ oz guajillo chiles (3)

8 garlic cloves, peeled

15 whole black peppercorns

8 whole allspice berries

3 whole cloves

½-inch piece canela (Mexican cinnamon) or 1⁄8 tsp ground cinnamon

1½ tsp cumin seeds

1½ tsp kosher salt

Wipe clean all chiles, then devein and remove seeds. (Break each cascabel chile into about three pieces for easier toasting.) Heat a comal, or heavy skillet, over medium-low heat and toast all chiles, 2 or 3 at a time, turning over and pressing down with tongs frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute per batch. Soak chiles in cold water to cover until soft, about 30 minutes. Drain and discard soaking water.

Put ¾ cup of fresh water in blender with chiles and remaining ingredients. Blend until smooth, at least 3 minutes. Add a little more water if necessary to puree. If you like a silky, smooth texture, strain adobo through a medium-mesh sieve. Keeps in refrigerator for up to five days or in freezer for a month.