In the 1990s, Asian fusion went from fad to “culinary punch line” when some critics began dubbing it Asian “confusion,” said Andrew Knowlton in Bon Appétit. Now it’s back in a new form that’s less about “gimmickry” and “more about cleverly combining traditional Japanese, Korean, and Chinese flavors with local ingredients.” Here are a few of today’s “most deft practitioners.”
Cholon Denver. At this restaurant named for Saigon’s largest Chinese market, chef Lon Symensma produces such “creative riffs on Asian classics” as soup dumplings with sweet onion and Gruyère. 1555 Blake St., (303) 353-5223
Sakaya Miami. Chef Richard Hales “mines the Korean pantry for his creative take on Asian-street-food–inspired dishes,” including calamari with a spicy paste of ssamjang. 3401 N. Miami Ave., (305) 576-8096
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East by Northeast Cambridge, Mass. This “hot spot” fuses Chinese cooking with New England ingredients. Don’t miss the braised lamb cannelloni with chile-garlic sauce, Honeycrisp apple, and mizuna. 1128 Cambridge St., (617) 876-0286
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