Drink: White wines for winter

Some oenophiles might tell you that in wine, as in fashion, the rule is “No white after Labor Day,” said Jason Wilson in The Washington Post. But “I really hate rules.” Italy, for instance, produces wines that make great “winter whites.” When it’s soup and stew season, white wines should be low in acidity and full-bodied. And make sure to serve them at cellar, not refrigerator, temperatures.

2008 Vietti Roero Arneis, Piedmont ($24). This Arneis is “floral and full of apple pie, ripe melon, and pineapple, with some spice on the finish.”

2008 Bastianich Friulano, Friuli ($15). This complex wine “commands your attention.” Its wonderfully strange flavors include apricot, herb, and “even a little anise.”

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2009 Abbazia di Novacella Ker­ner, Alto Adige ($24). Made in the “German-speaking part of northern Italy,” this Kerner tastes of “melon and apple, with a hint of citrus.”