Festive dining: Three choices in three cities

L’Espalier in Boston; Twist by Pierre Gagnaire in Las Vegas; Galatoire’s in New Orleans

During the holidays, people want a restaurant that matches the season’s spirit, said Andrew Knowlton in Bon Appétit. To us, that means a “spot that takes its service as seriously as its food, that coddles you and makes you feel, well, special.” Here are a few from across the country that meet our standards.

L’Espalier

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Start with “bubbly in the Salon” and then snag a window table to feast on chef Frank McClelland’s “Seasonal Degustation” menu, featuring ingredients from his farm. 774 Boylston St., (617) 262-3023

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

Las Vegas

One of the world’s best chefs has made his U.S. debut, on the 23rd floor of Sin City’s new Mandarin Oriental hotel, with a “tasting menu you’ll always remember.” 3752 Las Vegas Blvd. South, (888) 881-9367

Galatoire’s

New Orleans

For more than a hundred years, this “one-of-a-kind French Quarter classic” has boasted “charming waiters” and top-notch oysters Rockefeller and souffléed potatoes. 209 Bourbon St., (504) 525-2021