Thanksgiving: Red and white

If you’re planning Thanksgiving dinner for a big crowd, “do not be fooled into thinking you must pair specific wines with specific dishes,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Have both red and white on hand—and rosé, if you like—but be sure to buy bottles with a reasonably low alcohol level and plenty of zest: “You need wines that will be in it for the long haul.” Some suggestions:

2008 Gilbert Picq et Ses Fils Chablis ($20). This “textbook Chablis” is “pale, dry, and lively, smelling like oyster shells.”

2008 Clotilde Davenne Bourgogne Blanc Les Temps Perdus ($17). This white wine is “tangy and gentle yet insistent, with restrained citrus flavors.”

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2007 Lyeth Meritage, Sonoma County ($16). A great value, this red wine tastes of “dark fruit and earth.”

2006 A to Z Wineworks Chemin de Terre, Rogue Valley ($20). “Dark fruit and citrus highlights” give way to a red that’s “plush, full-bodied, and round.”