Limo
Portland, Ore.
As America’s “hunger for Peruvian food” grows, this cozy, candlelit spot seems poised to become a favorite of Portland’s foodies, said Ap Kryza in the Portland, Ore., Willamette Week. Limo excels at traditional fare, beginning with its “dynamite” ceviche. “Any Peruvian joint worth its peppers” needs to do marinated seafood well, of course, and the “globe-spanning” variety offered here begins with its terrific “classic”—tilapia in a simple lime and cilantro marinade. On the warm side of the menu, traditional piqueos (tapas) sometimes work brilliantly. Delights include skewers of eggplant and wonton-wrapped mozzarella served with a huancaína (spicy cheese sauce). But the kitchen hasn’t perfected every dish. An entree of braised lamb, served over mashed potatoes, is delicious but indistinct—just one example of a dish that might “evolve as Limo matures.” 2340 NW Westover Road, (503) 477-8348
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Aji Limon
Buena Park, Calif.
“Saltado” may be the archetypal dish of the 19th-century cultural collision that produced comida chifa, or Peruvian-Chinese food, said Edwin Goei in the OC Weekly. More than a century after a wave of Chinese immigration transformed Peruvian cuisine, it’s safe to say that saltado—a stir-fry of meat, tomato, and strips of red onion crisped in a wok and served with a side of French fries—has become Southern California’s “gateway dish to Peruvian cuisine.” But while most every Peruvian restaurant in the area offers a version, this casual new spot has created “a saltado against which to measure all others.” That’s not entirely surprising, since Aji Limon makes chifa a speciality, offering wonderful examples of cultural integration in plates of crisp meat-flecked noodles, steamed whole fish, and a delicious “Chinese-Peruvian fried-rice dish called chaufa.” Just reading the menu will make you feel as if you’ve touched down in Lima’s Chinatown. 7035 Lincoln Ave., (714) 229-1500
Latin Bites Cafe
Houston
Peruvian food gets a “modestly chic” touch at this tiny culinary gem in Houston’s warehouse district, said Alison Cook in the Houston Chronicle. It’s the work of former caterer Roberto Castre, whose kitchen produces food that’s “refined and studied, every morsel beautifully plated.” A memorable meal can be created by combining a host of small plates, anchored by Castre’s quality ceviches. Also not to be missed are the arepitas—crispy baby corn cakes stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and topped with braised meats. But I could say the same about the “unusual empanadas, their oniony ground-beef filling encased in a buttery, almost biscuit-like dough dusted with a bit of powdered sugar.” Castre’s visual flair ensures that each dish isn’t merely delicious: It “looks ready to take the stage at the best cocktail party ever.” 1302 Nance St., (713) 229-8369
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