Denver: Farm-to-table at high altitude

“Denver chefs face special challenges, cooking a mile above sea level,” said Jay Cheshes in The New York Times. At an altitude that high, meat and seafood dry out faster, baking methods need adjusting, and extreme winters and summers create tough conditions for produce and livestock. Despite all that adversity, the city’s restaurants have fallen in with the “farm-to-table ethos already consuming so many American cities.” These spots are some of the best dedicated to “celebrating Colorado’s farmers, ranchers, cheesemakers, and foragers.”

Fruition

This casual place “doesn’t look like much,” but chef Alex Seidel makes fresh produce and ingredients such as beef from nearby Nebraska “mesh beautifully.” The eggs and pork belly come from local farms. 1313 E. Sixth Ave., (303) 831-1962

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Root Down

This gas station–turned–top city eatery boasts a “happy hour scene that seems to rage every night.” The small-plate fare, including hoisin duck sliders and plump mussels with red curry sauce, features herbs grown in the planters that surround the restaurant. 1600 W. 33rd Ave., (303) 993-4200

The Squeaky Bean

“Homegrown produce” accents the quirky menu, whose fare includes polenta topped with morel mushrooms and “crispy ‘shake ‘n’ bake’ sweetbreads with poached pineapple and miniature basil.” 3301 Tejon St., (303) 284-0053