Recipe of the week: Early harvest: Laurent Tourondel’s formula for fall flavor
Tourondel's roasted root vegetable salad reflects the way he eases into the fall with earthier flavors and heartier fare.
“The Farmers’ Almanac may insist that fall officially begins on Sept. 21, but my fall menus tend to reflect the lingering warmth of summer and the gentle crossover to earthier flavors,” said Laurent Tourondel in Fresh From the Market (Wiley). Dishes usually are heartier ones, such as risotto or soup, but I also continue to serve chilled octopus or raw fish with citrus vinaigrette. Grilling still comes into play, but as the season changes, it gives way to longer cooking techniques such as slow roasting and braising. Above all at this time of year, I “long for crisp, juicy apples and pears, earthy mushrooms and nuts, and all varieties of cabbages and potatoes.”
Recipe of the weekRoasted Root Vegetable Salad With Marcona AlmondsSpanish Marcona almonds are “shorter, rounder, sweeter, and more delicate than regular almonds.”
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 6 wedges1 small acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 6 wedges1 small celery root, peeled and cut into 6 wedges1 small yam, peeled and cut into 6 wedges1 large golden beet (leaves reserved for garnish), peeled and cut into 6 wedges1 turnip, peeled and cut into 6 wedges1 medium parsnip, peeled and cut into 6 wedges2 medium shallots, peeled and cut into 3 pieces each¼ cup extra-virgin olive oilSea salt and freshly ground black pepper¼ cup Marcona almonds1½ tbsp sherry vinegarSage-garlic brown butter (below), warmZest from ½ lemon
Preheat oven to 375 F. Toss vegetables with olive oil in large bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange vegetables in roasting pan or on large rimmed baking sheet, making sure beets and turnips stay together, since they will roast longer. Roast vegetables until squash and parsnips are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove vegetables except beets and turnips. Transfer to platter and cover with foil. Roast beets and turnips for 20 minutes more.
Place almonds on baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, chop roughly. Stir almonds and sherry vinegar into warm brown butter. Once turnips and beets are completely roasted, add to platter of vegetables. Drizzle vegetables with brown butter and chopped nuts. Garnish with reserved beet leaves and lemon zest. Serves 6. Pairs well with a nutty Chardonnay.
For sage-garlic brown butter3 tbsp unsalted butter1 tbsp finely chopped garlic6 thinly sliced fresh sage leaves
Melt butter in small sauté pan over medium heat. Add garlic. Cook until golden brown and butter is beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in sage.