“The Farmers’ Almanac may insist that fall officially begins on Sept. 21, but my fall menus tend to reflect the lingering warmth of summer and the gentle crossover to earthier flavors,” said Laurent Tourondel in Fresh From the Market (Wiley). Dishes usually are heartier ones, such as risotto or soup, but I also continue to serve chilled octopus or raw fish with citrus vinaigrette. Grilling still comes into play, but as the season changes, it gives way to longer cooking techniques such as slow roasting and braising. Above all at this time of year, I “long for crisp, juicy apples and pears, earthy mushrooms and nuts, and all varieties of cabbages and potatoes.”
Recipe of the week
Roasted Root Vegetable Salad With Marcona Almonds
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Spanish Marcona almonds are “shorter, rounder, sweeter, and more delicate than regular almonds.”
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 6 wedges
1 small acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 6 wedges
1 small celery root, peeled and cut into 6 wedges
1 small yam, peeled and cut into 6 wedges
1 large golden beet (leaves reserved for garnish), peeled and cut into 6 wedges
1 turnip, peeled and cut into 6 wedges
1 medium parsnip, peeled and cut into 6 wedges
2 medium shallots, peeled and cut into
3 pieces each
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground
¼ cup Marcona almonds
1½ tbsp sherry vinegarSage-garlic brown butter (below), warm
Zest from ½ lemon
Preheat oven to 375 F. Toss vegetables with olive oil in large bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange vegetables in roasting pan or on large rimmed baking sheet, making sure beets and turnips stay together, since they will roast longer. Roast vegetables until squash and parsnips are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove vegetables except beets and turnips. Transfer to platter and cover with foil. Roast beets and turnips for 20 minutes more.
Place almonds on baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, chop roughly. Stir almonds and sherry vinegar into warm brown butter. Once turnips and beets are completely roasted, add to platter of vegetables. Drizzle vegetables with brown butter and chopped nuts. Garnish with reserved beet leaves and lemon zest. Serves 6. Pairs well with a nutty Chardonnay.
For sage-garlic brown butter
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp finely chopped garlic
6 thinly sliced fresh sage leaves
Melt butter in small sauté pan over medium heat. Add garlic. Cook until golden brown and butter is beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in sage.
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