In the sand flats of South Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, “clams are cut by hand, in the same way they have been for centuries,” said Bart van Olphen and Tom Kime in Fish Tales: Stories & Recipes From Sustainable Fisheries Around the World (Kyle). Farmers harvest only the “biggest clams,” returning the rest to mature—a technique that makes these waters a model for sustainable fisheries around the world. Of course, the harvesters love eating the tasty bivalves, too. Many traditional local preparations, such as the one below, make clear that clams here are “more than a livelihood”—they’re a source of civic pride.
Recipe of the week
Stir-fried Clams With Thai Basil and Chili Jam
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2 lemongrass stalks, outer leaves removed
2¼ lbs clams
2 tbsp oil
1¼-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp Thai chili jam (see below)
1/3 cup water
1 small bunch fresh Thai basil, coarsely chopped
1 small bunch fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp soy sauce
Juice of 2 limes
Freshly ground black pepper
Finely slice lemongrass. Wash clams and soak 10 minutes, removing barnacles. Discard any that are broken, smell, or do not close when tapped. Heat heavy-bottomed pan or wok over medium to high heat. Add oil and cook half the ginger and lemongrass for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant and aromatic. Add chili jam and clams. Stir over high heat, coating clams with jam. Add water, cover, and cook 3 minutes, shaking pan occasionally. Remove lid and stir from bottom. Cook 2 more minutes until clams have opened.
Add half basil and cilantro, soy sauce, and lime juice. Season with pepper. Taste and adjust if needed. Serve in 4 bowls with juice. Garnish with remaining herbs, lemongrass, and shredded ginger.
Thai chili jam
½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped
2 medium-size onions, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 large red chilies, seeded, finely chopped
2-inch ginger piece, peeled, finely chopped
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp soft brown sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 ripe tomatoes
2 tbsp tamarind pulp
2 tbsp fish sauce
1/3 cup water
Juice of 1 lime
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine cilantro, onions, garlic, chilies, ginger, and half the oil in bowl. Spread on baking sheet and roast 15 minutes, until onions start to caramelize. Remove and scrape contents into a mortar pestle or food processor. Add brown sugar, a little salt, and blend to rough paste.
Cut tomatoes in half. With cheese grater, grate flesh side of tomato. Heat remaining oil in heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add paste to pan. Add tamarind pulp, tomato pulp, fish sauce, and water. Lower heat and cook 25 to 30 minutes, until excess liquid has cooked away. Add lime juice and mix. Taste and adjust seasoning. Keeps about 3 weeks in fridge.
