Why American chefs are learning to love rabbit

We live “in an age when diners scoop marrow from roasted beef shins and dissect the feet of pigs raised by people they’ve met,” said Kim Severson in The New York Times. So perhaps we are ready to overcome our squeamishness about cooking with rabbit.

Rabbit has long been a staple of cuisines in many parts of the world. But, for reasons both cultural and economic, it never really caught on in the United States. Sure, it makes occasional appearances on French menus, or in the dishes of daring chefs, but for the most part its limited appeal hasn’t “translated to the supermarket.”

For the socially conscious eater, though, there are several reasons to reconsider. Rabbits are “typically raised on smaller farms, not in some giant industrial complex.” If you wanted to, you could even raise them on your own. Finally, from a dietary standpoint, rabbit is lean and nutritious.

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The following recipe, adapted from one by chef Sean Rembold of Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons restaurant, shows off some of rabbit’s versatility. Whether roasted or braised, in a stew or on a salad, it’s a change of pace from chicken.

Recipe of the week

Rabbit Loin With Bitter Greens

2 large bone-in rabbit saddles (bodies from 3- to 4-pound rabbits, all legs removed)

Salt and black pepper

2 tbsp whole grain mustard

2 tbsp white-wine vinegar or cider vinegar

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup dried cranberries, prunes, or other dried fruit

½ cup dry white wine or Armagnac, or as needed

1 head frisée or 8 oz dandelion or mustard greens

¼ cup almonds, toasted and chopped

Sprinkle saddles with salt and pepper.

If possible, do this the night before and refrigerate.

In a bowl, combine mustard and vinegar. Whisk in ¼ cup olive oil and season with salt and pepper. May be done 24 hours ahead.

Place dried fruit in small saucepan with pinch of salt and pepper, and wine to cover. Bring to boil and remove from heat. Drain when cool; remove any pits and cut larger fruit into chunks.

Place large, heavy sauté pan with lid over high heat with remaining 2 tbsp of olive oil until oil shimmers. Add rabbit saddles and sear well on all sides. Reduce to medium low, cover, and cook until interior is slightly pink, 145 degrees on an instant-read thermometer (about 20 minutes). Allow to rest several minutes, then use a sharp knife to remove loins and tenderloins from bone. Slice meat thinly on bias while still warm.

In a wide, shallow serving bowl, combine frisée or greens, almonds, and fruit. Add mustard dressing to taste, warmed slightly or at room temperature; season with salt and pepper; and toss well. Add rabbit and toss again. Serves 4.