Ethnic detours off California’s highways

Most travelers don’t stop as they drive along the expressways of California’s San Joaquin Valley, said Barbara E. Hernandez in The New York Times. But the adventurous few who do will find “a stew of cultures” to explore. Basque shepherds first arrived here in the 1890s; a century later, Hmong refugees—allies of American troops during the Vietnam War—began moving here from camps in Thailand. Seek out these culinary destinations.

Noriega Hotel Restaurant, Bakersfield

“Red-faced cowboys” mingle with city folk at this family-style restaurant. Among the standards are chicken cacciatore, lamb stew, and spare ribs, as well as such staples as Basque bread, a rather sweet house wine, and “unusually tasty blue cheese.” 525 Sumner St., (661) 322-8419

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Pho N Seafood, Visalia

Many Asian restaurants in California are run by immigrants cooking cuisines that aren’t their own. “Hmong families have gravitated toward Vietnamese.” The big draw is pho, a rice noodle soup made with beef or seafood. Another favorite is the Salt and Pepper Shrimp. N. Court St., (559) 732-3663