Virginia’s prize-winning Viognier wines

California vintners shocked the wine world in 1976, when Napa Valley vintages triumphed over France’s best châteaux, said Dave McIntyre in The Washington Post. That now-famous blind tasting was dramatized in the film Bottle Shock. A “much-less-heralded taste-off” took place 15 years ago, when fledgling Horton Vineyards of Virginia went up against some of California’s premier winemakers and won the top prize for best Viognier wine.

France’s Rhône Valley is the homeland of this classic white wine, prized for its subtlety and nuance. Virginia winemakers produce both this style and a more opulent, exuberant version that can also be rewarding. Think of the classic Viognier as a “relationship requiring your attention,” while the more effusive variety is like “a big, wet kiss on the lips.” Here are four of Virginia’s best.

Cooper Vineyards Viognier 2008 Virginia ($21)

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An “exciting” wine with exotic aromas and bright acidity.

Veritas Vineyard and Winery Viognier 2007 Monticello, Va. ($20)

A pale, golden wine with “peachy flavors that won’t quit.”

Michael Shaps Viognier 2007 Monticello, Va. ($35)

An “exceptional wine” with considerable depth and subtlety. Only 200 cases were produced.

Barboursville Vineyards Viognier Reserve 2007 Barboursville, Va. ($22) “Complex, intriguing, and sophisticated.”