Feature

L.A.’s two best new restaurants

Los Angeles' best new restaurants are in Glendale and Venice.

Fancy restaurants did not fare well in Los Angeles last year, said Patric Kuh in Los Angeles magazine. Tasting menus vanished, folded dish towels replaced cloth napkins, communal tables elbowed out private booths, and “beer became the new pour.” These newcomers are determined to restore dining to its rightful place “as a cornerstone of our daily lives.” The two best are:

Palate, housed in a former warehouse in Glendale, combines a “lyrical menu” with a “deep wine list” and reasonable prices. Behind the main dining room are a wine store, a library, and communal tables. Chef Octavio Becerra creates such “blessedly uncomplicated” dishes as potted Berkshire pork with an assortment of pickled onions, nectarines, and cherries; a chicken dish “reduced to chicharrón consistency”; and Wagyu beef served with torpedo onions, charred carrots, and oxtail sauce. “This is produce-driven cooking at its finest.” 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 662-9463

Gjelina The “quirky chandeliers, unvarnished wood appointments, and cozy courtyard” establish this Venice restaurant’s laid-back quality. The best items come out of the wood-fired oven, including roasted cauliflower; sunchokes with chili flakes and charred rosemary; and “wickedly good” flatiron steaks with smoked tomato butter and grilled beets. The wait can be long, but any restaurant this devoted to its craft is worth it. 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 450-1429

Recommended

6 charming homes in Queens, New York
House
Feature

6 charming homes in Queens, New York

The Check-In: Yosemite drops reservations, and more
Christmas travel.
Feature

The Check-In: Yosemite drops reservations, and more

The Week contest: Lustful ghost
Shadow of a man with his hand pressed against glass.
Feature

The Week contest: Lustful ghost

The best new Christmas-themed books for your holiday reading
A book.
Briefing

The best new Christmas-themed books for your holiday reading

Most Popular

World's 1st hydrogen-powered jet engine could mark turning point for aviation industry
A Rolls-Royce engine seen during an airshow.
Flying High

World's 1st hydrogen-powered jet engine could mark turning point for aviation industry

Everything to know about the storm poised to pummel the South
Tornado
Storm Watch

Everything to know about the storm poised to pummel the South

GOP leader Kevin McCarthy's bid for House speaker may really be in peril
Kevin McCarthy
You don't have the votes

GOP leader Kevin McCarthy's bid for House speaker may really be in peril