Fancy restaurants did not fare well in Los Angeles last year, said Patric Kuh in Los Angeles magazine. Tasting menus vanished, folded dish towels replaced cloth napkins, communal tables elbowed out private booths, and “beer became the new pour.” These newcomers are determined to restore dining to its rightful place “as a cornerstone of our daily lives.” The two best are:
Palate, housed in a former warehouse in Glendale, combines a “lyrical menu” with a “deep wine list” and reasonable prices. Behind the main dining room are a wine store, a library, and communal tables. Chef Octavio Becerra creates such “blessedly uncomplicated” dishes as potted Berkshire pork with an assortment of pickled onions, nectarines, and cherries; a chicken dish “reduced to chicharrón consistency”; and Wagyu beef served with torpedo onions, charred carrots, and oxtail sauce. “This is produce-driven cooking at its finest.” 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 662-9463
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
-
The genetic secrets of South Korea's female free-diversUnder The Radar Unique physiology of 'real-life mermaid' haenyeo women could help treat chronic diseases
-
Democrats: How to rebuild a damaged brandFeature Trump's approval rating is sinking, but so is the Democratic brand
-
Unraveling autismFeature RFK Jr. has vowed to find the root cause of the 'autism epidemic' in months. Scientists have doubts.
