Prosecco wars: Traditional vs. unofficial
Is there really a difference between Prosecco wine from Italy's designated region and those from non-regulated Prosecco vineyars from Brazil and elsewhere?
Is Prosecco’s popularity “too much too soon?” asked Monica Larner in Wine Enthusiast. This fresh, fragrant sparkling wine has experienced a phenomenal surge in demand. According to Italian law, it can be made only in an officially designated region in northeastern Italy. But recently non-regulated Prosecco vineyards have been planted in Brazil, Argentina, Romania, and Italy itself. Many official producers feel they’ve lost control of a 500-year-old tradition.
Our panel recently tasted 102 official and 41 unofficial Proseccos. We found the differences negligible. This is a “no-fuss, informal wine no matter where it comes from,” and its popularity is probably attributable to its sheer quaffability. Here are four exceptional buys:
Col Vetoraz Spumante NV Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze ($38)
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Our highest rated. A “luminous” unofficial sparkler with mineral tones and “vibrant fruit flavors.”
Bisol NV Crede ($25)
An officially sanctioned Prosecco from a “top-notch” producer. “The mouthfeel is streamlined and crisp.”
Bortolomiol NV Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze ($30)
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Delicate, smooth, and unofficial.
Mionetto NV ($10)
Another unofficial “Best Buy.” Invitingly effervescent.
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