Oregon’s overlooked wine

Oregon Pinot Gris “is one of the least-talked-about, best-value wines on the market today,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. While California vintages made from the grape are easy to find, Oregon’s vintners hesitate to talk about “anything but their precious Pinot Noir.” Oregon Pinot Gris wines tend to be made in the French style, as opposed to the drier Italian. “They almost always cost less than $20,” and match well with many different kinds of food. In a tasting of 25 Oregon Pinot Gris, our panel gave top marks to these four:

Adelsheim Vineyards Willamette Valley 2006 ($18) “Best value” and the only wine to earn three stars. Flavors of lemon.

Capitello Willamette Valley 2006 ($16) Slightly sweet, but with acidic balance.

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Willamette Valley Vineyards Willamette Valley 2006 ($14) “Delicate, balanced, and dry.”

Yamhill Valley Vineyards Willamette Valley 2006 ($14) Pink-tinted. Mineral flavors.