Veggie burgers are old hat, says Mark Bittman in The New York
Times. “I remember them from the kosher dairy restaurants of the Lower East Side” of Manhattan when I was growing up. Regrettably,
the most widely available meatless burgers today are frozen discs that taste like “organic library paste.” These alternatives are proof that vegetable burgers made with tofu or beans can be exceptionally
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flavorful. “They also lend themselves to improvisation with different
spices and herbs.” Be careful, though, not to overcook, or they will turn dry.
Recipes of the week
Tofu Burger
1/4 cup arame or other dark sea green, like kombu or wakame
1 bunch scallions
1-1/2 pounds firm tofu, patted dry
1/2 cup panko crumbs or fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tsp dark sesame oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 to 3 tbsp peanut or neutral oil, such as grapeseed
Pour boiling water over arame, soak for 2 minutes. Drain well. Put scallions in food processor, pulse until minced. Transfer to large bowl. Put arame and half the tofu into processor, pulse until just crumbled.
Add to bowl.
Put remaining tofu into processor, let it run until tofu is smooth. Add to bowl with crumbs, sesame seeds, soy sauce, sesame oil, a little salt, lots of pepper. Stir well to combine. Form into patties. Let rest a few
minutes.
Put oil in large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet, turn heat to medium. After a minute or 2, slip burgers into pan with spatula. Cook, undisturbed, until browned and easily moved, about 5 minutes. Carefully flip, cook until done, 3 to 4 minutes more. Serve on buns with mustard,
ketchup, chutney, or other toppings. Serves 4.
Bean Burger
2 cups well-cooked white, black, or red beans, or chickpeas or lentils, or 1 14-oz can, drained
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup rolled oats (preferably not instant)
1 tbsp chili powder, or the spice mix of your choice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg
Bean-cooking liquid, stock, or other liquid (wine, cream, milk,
water, or ketchup) if necessary
Extra-virgin olive oil or neutral oil, such as grapeseed
Combine all ingredients except liquid and oil in food processor, pulse until chunky but not puréed. If necessary, add a little liquid for a mixture that is moist but not wet. Let mixture rest for a few minutes. With wet hands, shape into patties, let rest again for a few minutes.
Film bottom of a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet with oil, turn heat to medium. When hot, add patties. Cook undisturbed until browned, about 5 minutes; turn carefully with spatula, cook 3 or 4 minutes until firm and browned. Serve on buns with mustard, ketchup, chutney, or other toppings. Serves 4.
