Nothing beats Pinot Noir as the all-purpose Thanksgiving Day wine, said Karen MacNeil in Cooking Light. How can one varietal satisfy “foods that are so divergent?” Pinot’s dry, underlying acidity is the reason it readily complements a wide range of flavors. Most red wines have very little acidity, but “Pinot Noir has it in spades,” so it rarely interferes with other flavors. “Instead, it acts as a refreshing counterpoint.” Given the grape’s versatility, “steals are rare.” But investing in an outstanding wine is well worth the cost, especially during holiday time. Here are five we highly recommend:

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2005 (Russian River Valley, Calif., $60) One of the most “sensual and mesmerizing” Pinots.

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