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There’s a technique within this recipe that, once mastered (and it’s fun and easy to master), you’ll want to use for other vegetable dishes, said Adam Byatt. It’s a quick dish, and more of a lunch than a side dish. The leeks are steamed whole and dressed with a vinaigrette to which I have added chives, but these could be replaced by chopped tarragon or chervil, or whatever herbs you fancy. For me, this has to be one of the most beautiful things in cookery.
Ingredients (serves 4)
6 leeks
100ml good-quality vegetable or chicken stock
100ml champagne vinegar or chardonnay vinegar
200ml champagne or dry white wine
3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
2 tsp sea salt flakes
2 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
200ml extra-virgin olive oil
½ bunch of chives, finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
Method
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Keeping the leeks intact, trim the wiry strands from the roots, remove the dark-green tops of the leeks and run under cold water to remove any dirt.
Lay the whole leeks in a large sauté pan and pour in the stock, vinegar and wine. Add the thyme leaves and season well with the salt and some pepper. Cover the leeks with a cartouche of baking paper.
Over a medium-high heat, bring to a rapid boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the leeks are soft and giving. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly in the pan.
Once slightly cooled but still warm, remove the leeks from the pan and transfer them to a chopping board. Remove 1cm from the root end and then slice them lengthways down the middle. Place the leeks on a warmed platter.
Return the pan to a medium heat and reduce the braising liquid by three-quarters, then remove from the heat. Whisk in the mustard, then whisk in the oil in a steady stream and finish with the chives.
Spoon this vinaigrette over the leeks and serve. You can also finish with extra soft herbs like chervil, if you like.
