Ningaloo: Australia's other great reef
Get up close and personal with whale sharks in an incredible underwater experience
Stretching for 186 miles along the coast of Western Australia, Ningaloo is one of the world's most dazzling coral reefs, said Lizzie Frainier in The Sunday Times. Although not as big as Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, it offers similarly spectacular snorkelling and it is also the best place in the world to swim with whale sharks. Getting up close to one of these giant fish – the biggest on Earth – was among the most "exhilarating" moments of my visit, which was remarkably straightforward. Western Australia is only eight hours ahead of London (Queensland is ten), and just 17 hours away by plane. And Ningaloo is a fringing reef – the world's largest – which means it is close to shore, so you don't need a boat to reach it.
From Perth, the state capital, I flew for two hours north to Exmouth, then drove the 70km to my accommodation. Sal Salis is a luxury camp, consisting of 16 tents with proper beds and hot showers, on a remote beach directly in front of the reef. It is "pricey" (Pippa Middleton stayed here for her honeymoon), though bear in mind that the rate does include food, drinks and some activities, such as snorkelling, paddleboarding and hiking. Meals are sociable – served at long shared tables – and "scrumptious", with cocktails and canapés before dinner. However, boat trips from a local dock to swim with whale sharks are charged separately, and only take place during the season, which runs from March to August.
Whale sharks grow up to 18 metres long, and I was "apprehensive" about swimming with them, even though they have no teeth and are said to be friendly. Once in the water with one, however, I felt "meditative" – awed by its great size, ancient origins and sheer beauty, as the light shimmered over its "polka-dot" skin.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Also wonderful were a hike in the canyons of Cape Range National Park (home to "adorable" rock wallabies), and a trip to a beach where a dozen large turtles were floating in the water.
Doubles cost from £4,674 for three nights (salsalis.com.au).
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
6 exquisite homes for skiersFeature Featuring a Scandinavian-style retreat in Southern California and a Utah abode with a designated ski room
-
Film reviews: ‘The Testament of Ann Lee,’ ’28 Years Later: The Bone Temple,’ and ‘Young Mothers’Feature A full-immersion portrait of the Shakers’ founder, a zombie virus brings out the best and worst in the human survivors, and pregnancy tests the resolve of four Belgian teenagers
-
Political cartoons for January 25Cartoons Sunday's political cartoons include a hot economy, A.I. wisdom, and more
-
6 exquisite homes for skiersFeature Featuring a Scandinavian-style retreat in Southern California and a Utah abode with a designated ski room
-
Film reviews: ‘The Testament of Ann Lee,’ ’28 Years Later: The Bone Temple,’ and ‘Young Mothers’Feature A full-immersion portrait of the Shakers’ founder, a zombie virus brings out the best and worst in the human survivors, and pregnancy tests the resolve of four Belgian teenagers
-
Book reviews: ‘American Reich: A Murder in Orange County; Neo-Nazis; and a New Age of Hate’ and ‘Winter: The Story of a Season’Feature A look at a neo-Nazi murder in California and how winter shaped a Scottish writer
-
28 Years Later: The Bone Temple – ‘a macabre morality tale’The Week Recommends Ralph Fiennes stars in Nia DaCosta’s ‘exciting’ chapter of the zombie horror
-
Bob Weir: The Grateful Dead guitarist who kept the hippie flameFeature The fan favorite died at 78
-
The Voice of Hind Rajab: ‘innovative’ drama-doc hybridThe Week Recommends ‘Wrenching’ film about the killing of a five-year-old Palestinian girl in Gaza
-
Off the Scales: ‘meticulously reported’ rise of OzempicThe Week Recommends A ’nuanced’ look at the implications of weight-loss drugs
-
A road trip in the far north of NorwayThe Week Recommends Perfect for bird watchers, history enthusiasts and nature lovers