Ningaloo: Australia's other great reef

Whale sharks have no teeth and are said to be friendly

(Image credit: James D. Morgan / Contributor / Getty Images)

published 16 March 2025

Stretching for 186 miles along the coast of Western Australia, Ningaloo is one of the world's most dazzling coral reefs, said Lizzie Frainier in The Sunday Times. Although not as big as Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, it offers similarly spectacular snorkelling and it is also the best place in the world to swim with whale sharks. Getting up close to one of these giant fish – the biggest on Earth – was among the most "exhilarating" moments of my visit, which was remarkably straightforward. Western Australia is only eight hours ahead of London (Queensland is ten), and just 17 hours away by plane. And Ningaloo is a fringing reef – the world's largest – which means it is close to shore, so you don't need a boat to reach it.

From Perth, the state capital, I flew for two hours north to Exmouth, then drove the 70km to my accommodation. Sal Salis is a luxury camp, consisting of 16 tents with proper beds and hot showers, on a remote beach directly in front of the reef. It is "pricey" (Pippa Middleton stayed here for her honeymoon), though bear in mind that the rate does include food, drinks and some activities, such as snorkelling, paddleboarding and hiking. Meals are sociable – served at long shared tables – and "scrumptious", with cocktails and canapés before dinner. However, boat trips from a local dock to swim with whale sharks are charged separately, and only take place during the season, which runs from March to August.

Whale sharks grow up to 18 metres long, and I was "apprehensive" about swimming with them, even though they have no teeth and are said to be friendly. Once in the water with one, however, I felt "meditative" – awed by its great size, ancient origins and sheer beauty, as the light shimmered over its "polka-dot" skin.