I’ve never liked camping, riding or group travel, so I wasn’t an obvious candidate for a group camping and riding trip in Kyrgyzstan, said Rachel Johnson in The Sunday Times.
I hadn’t reckoned, however, with the “adventuress and entrepreneur” Alexandra Tolstoy, a distant cousin of Leo, who has spent years guiding visitors through this landlocked Central Asian country on horseback (past guests have included the actor Dominic West, the “pie magnate” Charlie Bigham and the late satirist P.J. O’Rourke).
She’s a “natural saleswoman” who made the prospect sound “irresistible” – and thus it was that I found myself on a Turkish Airlines flight to Bishkek in May, to join her and some “yummy mummies from the Cotswolds and Chilterns” for a six-day, 120-mile trek among the “jagged”, snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan, or Celestial Mountains.
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We were accompanied by five Kyrgyz horsemen and a support team who moved our camp daily, packing our tents and the two “plastic thrones that served as our khazis” into former Soviet army trucks and transporting them along sheep tracks. A cook prepared “slap-up” breakfasts, lunches of plov (rice with “gobbets” of lamb) and good dinners (including freshly baked cakes), and I soon found I was enjoying myself – even falling “in love” with riding, camping (“you sleep so well in a snug tent by a rushing river”) and the “nomadic life”.
What helped most, of course, was the “indescribable” beauty of the surroundings – a mountain range that rises above 7,000 metres, and is “Edenic” in the late spring, its green valleys alive with wildflowers. We rode through walnut forests, skirted villages where boys on donkeys herded sheep, and watched a game of kok boru – polo with a goat carcass for a ball (the “tenderised” flesh is then cooked). But honestly, there were “too many highlights to list”, from swimming in “swirling” rivers to galloping beside magnificent lakes to siestas in verdant glens.
The Ultimate Travel Company has a 10-night trip from £7,215pp, excluding flights.
