The word Samarkand, for many, conjures up exotic images – from majestic blue tiled mosques to fragrant spice markets. Located in east-central Uzbekistan, it is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. This mesmerising ancient city embraces its legacy, but it's also home to contemporary hospitality, from luxurious five-star hotels to a plush airport built in 2022.
A typical day in Samarkand can be spent shopping for artisan crafts and watching authentic dancing before tucking into a hearty meat and rice spiced plov. The city also has a rich wellness offering; whether indulging in an avant-garde beauty procedure or opting for a massage rooted in local tradition, Samarkand really does have it all.
Where to stay
The luxurious Hilton Samarkand Regency hotel
Silk Road Samarkand is a fantastic choice. You can take your pick from eight luxurious hotels or choose to stay in a gorgeous wooden chalet-style villa in the resort's Eco Village, each of which have private pools and gardens. Accommodation options range from the budget-friendly Wellness Park Hotel Turon right up to the five-star Hilton Samarkand Regency.
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What to see and do
The Tilya-Kori Madrasah at Registan Square, Samarkand
The very best artisans from all over Uzbekistan have shops displaying their crafts in the Eternal City, which was created so guests at the Silk Road Samarkand resort and outside visitors alike can experience the cultural highlights of places such as Samarkand, Bukhara, Ferghana, Tashkent, Khorezm, Kashkadarya, Surkhandarya and Karakalpakstan. Everything from handmade scissors decorated with a stork (the bird emblem of Uzbekistan signifying peace, happiness and freedom) to miniature paintings where the paint has been swapped out for coffee can be bought here. There are also restaurants and cafes serving authentic fare, a wine bar offering local wines, plus workshops and demonstrations such as traditional paper making.
Of course, a must is to explore the actual city of Samarkand and for that a guide can be very useful. Highlights include the iconic Registan Square, which features three madrasahs – the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619–1636) and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646–1660). Then there is the azure-hued Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, plus Shah-i-Zinda, the must-see complex of tombs showcasing the very best Timurid-era tilework dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. Bibi-Khanym Mosque is another intricate architectural delight; in the interior courtyard there's a massive marble Quran. Finally, be sure to stop at the Bukhari silk carpet factory, where you can watch colourful carpets being woven by hand.
Wellbeing
The Uzbeki father of medicine, Avicenna, was known to be a fan of the healing that comes from warm sand
Silk Road Samarkand has several wellbeing offerings. The Wellness Centre in the Hilton Garden Inn Samarkand Afrosiyob hotel is huge. Guests can see specialists such as dermatologist-cosmetologists, physiotherapists and even neurologists or book on to one of their wellness programmes, which require a minimum of three nights stay.
The Nephrite SPA offers everything from traditional Balinese massages to fabulous local treatments. I opted for a relaxing massage in a room specially equipped for psammotherapy AKA sand therapy. The Uzbeki father of medicine, Avicenna, was known to be a fan of the healing that comes from warm sand.
Eating and drinking
The fragrantly sweet spiced rice and meat plov is a traditional dish
El Sabor restaurant is in the Hilton Samarkand Regency. As you walk past the fridges proudly displaying slabs of meat hanging and ageing, it is clear what they specialise in: steak. They also have a huge selection of speciality wine. My steak, which was cooked to perfection, featured a dusting of luxurious gold flecks.
An ideal choice for a casual get-together is the Khmelnov Brewery, Restaurant & Bar in the Savitsky Plaza. Here you can enjoy tasty pub-style dishes such as shrimp salad, chicken wings and a local meat and chickpea broth.
The Sayyora Fishing Club within the Silk Road Samarkand premises is a fun spot for lunch. Guests sit in a wooden gazebo, which is equipped with fishing rods so you can fish in the lake you are overlooking, then barbecue your catch right there. The fish is accompanied by delicious salads. You can also ask for ready-cooked fish; the fried carp served with a tangy, slightly spicy tomato sauce, is a winner.
Emirhan Restaurant is known for its spectacular views over Registan Square. Try to get a seat on the terrace for live music and authentic Uzbeki cuisine. I recommend the local kebab platters, which include everything from tender lamb chops, chicken shish and minced meat kebabs topped with fresh onion to salads and hot breads.
Afrosiyob restaurant is in the Eternal City and serves excellent Uzbek cuisine. The fragrantly sweet spiced rice and meat plov was moreish, as were the delightful local baklava. If you're lucky there could be a show on so you can watch local dancing while eating.
Yasemen was a guest at the Hilton Samarkand Regency, where rooms start from £139 per night.
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