Hair stylist who created the “Purdey” for Joanna Lumley
Today, he may be best known for the bottles of Frizz Ease serum that line the shelves of supermarkets and chemists, said The New York Times. But before he became one of the first hairdressers to launch an eponymous range of hair products, John Frieda attracted some of the biggest names of the 1970s to his salons in central London and elsewhere. He created the Beatles-inspired pageboy bob that Joanna Lumley’s character wore in “The New Avengers” – the Purdey – and gave Shirley MacLaine her shaggy look. She thanked him in a card reading: “Every time I shake my hair I display your art.”
Yet Frieda, who has died aged 75, was not a louche or bohemian figure: there was no scent of marijuana in his salons. On the contrary, they were clean white spaces; and he was himself elegant, serious-minded and reserved – something he once put down to the year he spent in hospital as a child, suffering from rheumatic fever. He was born in west London in 1951, said The Telegraph. His mother was an Irish Catholic who, he said, dressed like Celia Johnson in “Brief Encounter”. His father, who was of Polish-Jewish heritage, was also a hairdresser, with a thriving salon in Ealing; Frieda Sr was himself the son of a barber, who had opened a salon on Fleet Street after fleeing 19th-century pogroms.
His parents sent him to a private school, King’s in Harrow, hoping he’d become a doctor. Instead, he left at 16, saying he wanted to cut hair like his father. It was, he later said, an excuse to get out of studying. Yet nine months later, he took up an apprenticeship at the fashionable salon Leonard of Mayfair. He was paid £4 a week, said The Times, but took his work seriously, and got noticed by his boss, owing to the care he put into folding the towels. Taken on as an assistant, he shampooed Twiggy’s hair, swept up Mick Jagger’s “collectable locks”, and styled Jean Shrimpton’s tresses for fashion shoots. Soon, he had become in demand in his own right. “The technical skills are easy to learn,” he once said, “but visual perception is more important, finding the right hairstyle for a woman’s face.” He opened his own salon in 1976, in Marylebone. Lumley, a virtual unknown at the time, was an early client; six months later, she was famous, and everyone was asking for a Purdey. Later clients included Diana, Princess of Wales, and Jackie Onassis. He married one of them – the pop star Lulu. They had a son, Jordan Frieda, before divorcing in 1991. He is survived by his second wife, Frances Avery Agnelli, with whom he had two more children.
In the 1980s, he decided he needed a fresh challenge, and began devising his own haircare products. He sold them first in salons; then Boots suggested he produce a major commercial range. With the fashion for big hair at its height, he and a chemist worked on a thickening lotion. After he demonstrated the Root Booster on Richard & Judy’s “This Morning”, Boots sold 1.2 million bottles. He then teamed up with marketing expert Gail Federici, who helped him break into the US market – and launch Frizz Ease, for those with curly hair. It became the bestselling hair serum in America, and still sells a bottle every few seconds. Later, he produced a range for specific hair colours – Radiant Red, Brilliant Brunette and so on. In 2002, he sold the company for $450 million. He collected art, bought homes all over the world, and became a serious student of Eastern philosophies. He had, he once said, got to know some very rich and successful people, and found a lot of them to be unhappy.