The Italian designer who dressed Hollywood
Giorgio Armani added by subtracting. The “deconstructed” jackets that brought the Italian designer renown in the mid-1970s stripped out the stiff linings and shoulder padding then common to sport coats in favor of soft fabrics, muted tones, and a sleek design that came to define relaxed elegance. Having done his part to “soften the image of men,” as Armani put it, he then set about to “harden the image of women,” with assertive power suits that in the 1980s became ubiquitous among female executives. Silver-haired, blue-eyed, and suavely handsome, Armani was beloved in Hollywood, where his black-tie suits and evening gowns were such a red-carpet staple that Women’s Wear Daily dubbed the 1990 Oscars “the Armani Awards.” A canny businessman who maintained personal control of a vast global enterprise, Armani amassed an estimated $12 billion. “Life,” he once said, “is a movie. And my clothes are the costumes.”
Born in northern Italy, Armani grew up during Benito Mussolini’s reign, and in World War II his family “often had little to eat,” said The Times (U.K.). His father was an accountant, his mother a homemaker who made her three children elegant clothes. “We looked rich,” Armani later said. Aiming to be a doctor, he studied medicine in Milan but left for a stint in the military. He then landed a job as a window dresser at a Milan department store. His styling talents drew notice from designer Nino Cerruti, who gave Armani a job designing menswear despite his lack of training. In 1975, he launched his own label, funded by the sale of his Volkswagen Beetle. Armani’s reworked jackets—“supple as a cardigan, light as a shirt”—quickly caught on in Europe, said Reuters. In 1980, he “won the hearts of the U.S. glittering class” when his clothes were featured in the film American Gigolo, which showed a shirtless Richard Gere scouring a closet full of Armani suits and ties. Two years later, he made the cover of Time under the headline “Giorgio’s Gorgeous Style.”
Over the years, “Armani grew the company into a lifestyle empire,” said The Washington Post, putting his name on jewelry, housewares, hotels, restaurants, perfumes, multiple spin-off clothing lines, and hundreds of stores. His fabulous wealth bought a 213-foot yacht and a stable of luxury homes. A reserved workaholic, he toiled into his 90s, maintaining a vision that balanced glamour and subtlety. “Elegance doesn’t mean being noticed,” he once said. “It means being remembered.” |