Recipe of the week: A duo of penne preparations from Italy’s food bible

The pasta dish penne alla Norma was created in Catania, Sicily, in honor of native son Vincenzo Bellini, composer of the opera Norma. It’s one of hundreds of recipes, from every region of Italy, whose definitive versions were first published in the canonical cookbook Il Cucchiaio d’argento.

The first edition of this remarkable work, equal parts reference book and cookbook, was published in 1950. The most recent Italian edition, published in 1997, included well over 2,000 recipes. But only in recent years was an English-language translation published, as The Silver Spoon.

Now comes The Silver Spoon: Pasta (Phaidon), a follow-up that concentrates particularly on dishes that make use of all kinds of pasta, both dried and fresh, from agnolotti to ziti. It includes 360 recipes, ranging from family favorites to more elaborate creations.

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Penne, the short, diagonally cut tubes that are among the most popular of all pastas, get their name from the Italian word for “quills.” So named because their shape is similar to that of a quill pen, penne come in two forms: smooth (lisce) and ridged (rigate).

Penne alla Norma

2 small eggplants, thinly sliced

2⁄3 cup olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

12 oz canned chopped tomatoes

6 fresh basil leaves, torn

12 oz penne

Scant ½ cup grated ricotta salata cheese

Salt and pepper

Put the eggplant slices into a colander, sprinkle each layer with salt, and let drain for 30 minutes, then rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Heat 6 tbsp of the oil in a large skillet. Add the eggplant slices and cook in batches over medium heat for 5–10 minutes on each side until golden brown. Remove with a spatula and drain on paper towels. Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a pan. Add the garlic, tomatoes, and basil, season with salt and pepper, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender. Process to a purée. Cook the penne in plenty of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and tip into a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle with half the ricotta, spoon the tomato sauce over it, and arrange the eggplant slices on top. Sprinkle with remaining ricotta and serve without tossing. Serves 4.

Penne all’Arrabbiata

6 tbsp oil

2 garlic cloves

½ fresh chili, seeded and chopped

1 lb 2 oz canned chopped tomatoes, drained

12 oz penne lisce

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Salt

Heat oil in a skillet, add the garlic cloves and chili, and cook until the garlic browns. Remove the cloves from the pan and discard. Add the tomatoes to the pan, season with salt, and cook for about 15 minutes. Cook the penne in a large pan of salted boiling water until al dente, then drain, and tip into the skillet. Toss over high heat for a few minutes, then transfer to a warm serving dish. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4.