Around the middle of the 1980s, well-known watch brands began collaborating with high-end fashion labels – a move which "marked a new phase of the quartz watch revolution of the 1970s", says Joe Thomson on the popular watch blog Hodinkee.
Led by Swatch, Fossil and Guess, the era brought about a whole new category of timepieces: the fashion watch. "It’s not what’s inside the watch that counts, these brands said, but what’s outside", Thomson says.
But according to many industry experts, the experiment was only limitedly successful until Swatch watches partnered with American fashion designer Calvin Klein. Only then did the new style of watch really become popular.
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As Calvin Klein unveiled its 2019 collection, The Week Portfolio caught up with the Carlo Giordanetti, president of Calvin Klein Watches and Jewellery, to discuss how watches have changed over the past two decades, and what is on the horizon.
(Image credit: Torvioll)
Calvin Klein watches are more expensive than other brands within the fashion watch segment, priced higher than your nearest competitors in part due to your Swiss construction and movements. Does that give you an edge or does it make competing with cheaper rivals harder?
The commitment of Swatch Group to Swiss made quality within the more affordable brands is a must and a strong statement that is meant to develop a strong relationship with our customers and final clients.
A short-sighted, opportunistic choice made only on price goes against the customer’s search for smart investments and reliable quality.
A watch is not forever anymore, but it remains an important and meaningful emotional choice and the aesthetics must be supported by inner reliability and a potential long term relationship.
How has the fashion watch segment changed since the quartz revolution began in the 80s and 90s?
Quartz has brought the possibility to play more to the market – with style, with design, with shapes and sizes. Watches have become a way to express one’s own personality and they became style signifier.
The wrist has gone from a purely functional territory and one that remains almost unchanged through time, to a place for expressing oneself and making statements. A real revolution!
And how do you see fashion watches developing over the next few decades?
I believe that the fashion watch segment will remain powerful due to its dynamism and collaboration opportunities with upcoming new brands. Watches are today – and will be in the future – part of the fashion panorama.
How important is the UK market to Calvin Klein? And Britain aside, where are your key markets these days?
The UK is a strong market for Calvin Klein Watches and Jewellery as there is a dynamic and youthful audience which understands the statement we make as well as the fashion sex appeal of the brand and the interesting possibility to mix watches and jewels from the same brand. We offer a uniqueness in the market and the element of playing with fashion to define personal style, British customers identify themselves with our cross category offering.
Worldwide, we are very strong in China where we also have an interesting retail presence with dedicated watches and jewelry boutiques – and Asia in general, where the brand as whole is very strong. In Europe, Italy remains a powerful market as they have such a sense for fashion brands, and France and Portugal are powerful jewellery markets.
You have said recently that your watches are shifting away from minimalist designs and becoming more architectural. How well has that shift been received?
The new language, more modernist, architectural and textured has been welcomed by the more fashion forward customers, those more inclined to adopt bolder trends and who are not afraid of making strong statements.
The direction has not been disruptive though - as the new codes have been highlighted by colours in line with the fashion collection and have not departed from the classic sleek and pure shapes associated with Calvin Klein.
The evolution of design has been implemented quite smartly I think, as we have kept some of our timeless lines alive, but with injections of new colours and texture variations. And as we know, the market today is as much about experiencing newness as it is about celebrating icons and finding reassurance in them, reinterpreting and refreshing according to the season’s mood.
What are your views on smart watches? Would Calvin Klein consider producing one?
As a Group, we have several projects in development in the area of smart technologies – when one which makes sense and brings a real added value to our customers, then we will definitely add that offering.
You used to be creative director of Swatch. How did your time there inform what you are doing at Calvin Klein?
Working at Swatch brings you an open mind, a love for diversity, a sense of style and a high attention to seasonal trends. All these elements continue to be part of me and they are injected with the Calvin Klein DNA to inspire and develop the language the brand deserves.
What has been the impact of Swatch Group quitting Baselworld?
Our alternative programs in every country, based on dedicated appointments with all retailers and personalized brands presentations, have actually been extremely well received. Everyone felt our relationships have had a chance to become deeper, more focused and more personal. As in every aspect of life, dedicated time, personal attention and the ability to listen create a powerful, motivating and energizing mix.
And finally, what can we look forward to seeing from Calvin Klein in 2019 and beyond?
Our commitment to create exciting timepieces and jewelry is unchanged and will continue to animate us. We can expect new materials in jewelry, new interesting touches of colours and functions and the establishment of some iconic pieces. In watches, new volumes and research towards creating a new classic. For the younger generation, it will be interesting to see where the new trends of vintage on one side, and new classics on the other will take us…
