Less overrun than Florence, Tuscany's second city nevertheless rivals its old adversary for Renaissance palazzi and artistic and cultural experiences.
Siena's central piazza, the Campo, "takes some beating", says Tim Jepson in the Daily Telegraph. All the more so during the annual Palio horse race, Italy's most dramatic historical spectacle.
The old town, replete with beautiful churches and cathedrals, has its own character. "Its sleepy, honey-stoned streets are in marked medieval contrast to the more gaunt and impersonal grandeur of Florence’s Renaissance heart."
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In many ways, Siena hasn't changed much in 800 years, says the New York Times. It remains a place where "country collides with city". And while Florence "may have won the battle in terms of historical significance and blockbuster art, Siena is decidedly more liveable". New boutiques, wine bars and contemporary restaurants have emerged over the past few years.
A must-see is the Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the oldest surviving bank in the world, while the best Tuscan food can be found at Nannini, Morbidi Gourmet and the Ristorante San Desiderio.
To experience Siena at its grandest, splash out on the Grand Hotel, a converted 17th-century villa in the heart of town, says GQ, or in the "elegant" Palazzo Ravizza.
Flights to Florence start at £177 return on Vueling. Siena is 90 mins away by road or rail
