From Lima to London: Chicama charms in Chelsea

Trends come and go, especially in London, but one that seems set to be more than the flavour of the moment is Peruvian food. It's delicious, it's healthy and it has now generated enough international recognition to give restaurateurs across the world the confidence to diversify into particular parts of the country's cuisine.

One such place is Chicama, on King's Road, Chelsea, a sister restaurant to the popular Pachamama, in Marylebone. Chicama's menu is Peruvian seafood focused and completely meat-free, making it a haven for pescatarians, and is divided into appetisers, small plates and whole grilled fish. To start, don't miss the globe artichoke with brown-crab mayo, which is delicately spiced and delightfully moreish. Equally delicious are the courgette and cornmeal beignets with herb mayo and chilli jam; popped-corn monkfish cheeks with aji amarillo mayo; and fried clams with aji panca. Since aji is Spanish for chilli pepper, they all benefit from a subtle kick, too.

The small plates feature several exquisite ceviches, including a vegetarian variation on the usual raw fish. The perfect mix of sour, sharp, spicy, sweet and fatty, they're served with an imaginative array of ingredients such as grilled peach and radish, or grilled corn and pickled onion. The vegetable dishes are just as innovative, and include umami-rich fried aubergine served with pecans and a tasty, slightly sweet plantain miso and an exotic twist on cauliflower cheese with chimichurri.

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The selection of grilled fish depends on what's available – it's brought fresh from Cornwall daily – but is reliably delicious across the board. Served on or off the bone, according to the customer's preference, it might include John Dory, brill, sea bream, gurnard, lemon sole or monkfish tail. Each is coated in a skilful combination of spices, grilled over charcoal to give it a superb depth of flavour, and served with optional side dishes such as black rice or charred sweet potato with sesame.

Desserts show the true genius of combining tropical and Asian flavours. The standout dish is banana and yuzu ice cream with torched meringue and coconut – a yin and yang of sweetness from one fruit and a sour, citrussy tang from the other. Cocoa fans, however, won't want to miss the triple-threat Piura Porcelana chocolate, chocolate crumb and chocolate mousse.

Finally, be sure to order a pre or post-dinner cocktail, especially a Barberola – a Peruvian version of an Aperol spritz made with cherry and rhubarb pisco (Peruvian brandy) and served with a sprinkling of orange sugar on the side of the glass. There's also a good selection of Japanese sakes, which makes an invigorating accompaniment to the fish and seafood.

Chicama is an ideal spot in summer – its vast glass doors open out onto a terrace – so head there while the sun is still smiling and sample something a little different and really rather special.

A meal for two with cocktails and wine, from £140; chicamalondon.com