The Danes have been a leading light in gastronomy over the past few years, thanks to Rene Redzepi and Noma, and Scandi cuisine has successfully muscled itself into the London restaurant scene. But the food for which that nation is most famous, and which bears its moniker, has thus far been lacking in the capital. We're talking pastries.
Two leading Danish bakers, Ole Kristoffersen and Steen Skallebæk, are here to set that right – they launched an artisan bakery this month in the new St James's Market development in London's West End. With some 50 outlets in Denmark, Lagkagehuset is already a household name across that country. But fear not: the pair have made it easier for Londoners by naming their first venue outside their home country after themselves: Ole & Steen.
The name might have changed, but the differences end there, with Kristoffersen and Skallebæk sticking to the time-honoured baking traditions for which the Danes are renowned. Their most popular recipes include their famous cinnamon snegl, or swirl, and flodebolle – marshmallow puffs covered in dark chocolate and rolled in hazelnuts. It also does a good line in other tempting treats, among them peanut pie, marzipan slices and rhubarb pastries.
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However, this isn't just a bakery in the British sense – it's open all day, so customers can start their morning by sampling, in situ, traditional Danish dishes from the breakfast menu, which features porridges with a range of toppings, freshly made toasties and Danish skyr yoghurt. The daytime and evening offering, meanwhile, leans towards soups and the country’s famous open sandwiches, including a Danish blue, English pear and chestnut option and one featuring rare roast beef and remoulade. Salads are no less enticing: think roast duck, lemon, pickled courgette and salsa verde; and lentil, beetroot, dill and goats' cheese. Drinks get equal billing as the food, with Ole & Steen serving a single-estate coffee to appease connoisseurs, as well as a small selection of craft beers and wines.
In recent months, we've all become familiar with the Danish word hygge, which describes the feeling that comes with taking pleasure in making everyday moments more special, and Kristoffersen and Skallebæk are masters in these matters. Order their soft-baked dough crescents with toasted sesame seeds that are filled with Danish sausage and experience hygge for yourself.
Ole & Steen, 56 Haymarket, 2 St James's Market, London SW1Y 4RP; oleandsteen.co.uk
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