Northcote: The rise of biodynamic gardens

From sowing seeds according to lunar calendars to burying cows' horns in the earth, Nigel Haworth, Michelin-starred chef patron at Lancashire’s Northcote, is turning the hotel’s food revolutionary in the most considered way. His hotel, long-respected for its commitment to innovation, will be the first in the world with its own biodynamic kitchen gardens.

"Chefs all talk of their commitment to seasonality, I want to drive this further. We’ve been organic at Northcote for 17 years. By tuning into the terroir, we will have produce that has the edge on flavour and nutritional value and will give even greater clarity to our menu," explains Haworth whilst proffering a slice of white beetroot. It is crisper and more intense than any I have tasted before. “Healthier soil makes you reassess what true flavour is about."

It’s not an easy path to cultivate and will take three years to make the full transition to Demeter, goddess of agriculture, status. Haworth has appointed Phill Dewhurt Director of Flowers, Trees & Bees to supervise. "I see biodynamic as breathing fertility into the land," says Dewhurt. "Essentially, it’s about working with nature, not against it to protect the earth and the integrity of our food." More specifically, Dewhurt will look at using and saving indigenous seed varieties that are regionally appropriate to the local soil to protect its biodiversity. The introduction of a soft fruit and grape vineyard will mean the hotel can produce its own cordials, vinegars and even wine. “Besides providing delicious ingredients, we are protecting our local agricultural heritage”, explains Dewhurt.

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Biodynamic agriculture, with its rhythm of life approach, is not new: its holistic approach to farming, gardening and nutrition was started by social activist Dr Rudolph Steiner in 1924. In effect it translates as deciding the best days for planting, sowing and harvesting in accordance with whether the moon is in the ascendant (when a plant’s sap rises, making it the best time to harvest) or descendant (when the vitality is in the roots so optimum for planting root produce).

Customers curious to know more about how the produce on their plate will change can attend a Horti Half Hour tour of the garden with Dewhurt and chat over fresh mint tea (biodynamic, of course). Northcote’s first biodynamic menu will go live in early April and promises a simpler, completely produce-driven menu that will strive for perfection. As Haworth says: "It will be a total eye-opener with ingredients tasting more of themselves than any diner has ever experienced: rarefied simplicity."

northcote.com

Sudi Pigott is a food and travel writer, trend consultant and author of Flipping Good: Pancakes From Around the World; sudifoodie.com