How a jewellery addict should shop a fair

Jewellery is the archetypal style signifier – it can be the crowning piece to any outfit. I have always loved it - from the early days playing with the pieces in my grandmother’s drawer, to having the privilege of working with some leading lights in the jewellery trade today.

I am equally attracted to a perfectly cut and extremely valuable gem as I am to man-made marvels. For example, a few loved pieces in my collection include an 18th century Indian diamond and gold ring, a Frida Kahlo necklace made of beer bottle tops and a pair of Pippa Small black diamond earrings.

I have personally bought pieces from art and antiques fairs, luxury brands, contemporary jewellery dealers and independent makers. And as I have recently taken on the mantle of the LAPADA trade association and its Berkley Square Fair, I am looking forward to some good old-fashioned insider trading.

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How to shop a fair

My first tip is don’t be shy. It is essential to try jewellery on, to feel the weight of it, how it lies on your skin, how the piece and your skin’s tone react, understand how the scale of the piece works with your own proportions. Nothing looks a fraction of its worth while lying behind glass in a cabinet.

At a fair, ask the exhibitor about the piece. Does it have an interesting history? Where is the stone from and where and when was it cut and/or set? Is it signed by one of the famous jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef or Boucheron? Are there any inclusions in the stone? All these things can add to or subtract from the value of the piece.

Buying jewellery in the secondary market from antique and modern jewellery dealers is a very smart thing to do – generally giving you more bling for your buck. And if you stick to quality stones and signed pieces and periods such as the Belle Epoque, they will certainly hold their value.

According to the Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index, which tracks the price growth of 10 luxury investment sectors over the past 12 months, jewellery is a consistently strong performer. And what a pleasure it can be to wear your nest egg around your neck.

My hot list of jewels that perform particularly well at art and antiques fairs and auction is as follows:

• Coloured diamonds
• Rubies
• Colourless diamonds/white diamonds
• Sapphires
• Emeralds
• Belle Epoque/Art Deco Jewellery
• Designer jewellery e.g. from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Suzanne Belperron, Tiffany, Boivin or Boucheron.
• Natural pearls
• Artist jewellery
• Spinels

The LAPADA Fair in Berkley Square previews on 13 September and runs through until 19 September.

For tickets go to www.lapadalondon.com