“It wasn’t so long ago” that ambitious New York chefs looking to launch a world-class restaurant considered even Brooklyn too remote a locale, said Julia Moskin in The New York Times. Today, some of city’s great talents are opening up shop two hours north in the Berkshires. The move makes sense: Luxury rural dining has a long history in Italy and France. Besides, the farm-to-table cooking that today’s urbanites crave is easier to practice in a vacationland like this, where every chef’s kitchen is surrounded by farmland.
Fish and Game Small-plates pioneer Zak Pelaccio recently departed New York City to launch this venture in the upper Hudson Valley. The interior is “a fever dream of luxury and rural kitsch,” a welcoming space where the $68 set menu might include whole duck roasted in an open fireplace. 13 S. 3rd St., Hudson, N.Y., (518) 822-1500
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