Sicily’s lightweight champs

“Sicily has always been a prodigious fount of wine,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. That wine mostly used to be cheap and bad—the reds far too heavy. But over the past 20 years, new producers have been embracing the island’s indigenous grapes, and the “agile” reds they produce have turned the island into “one of the most exciting wine regions in the world.”

2009 Lamoresca I.G.T. Sicilia Rosso ($39). This “spicy” blend of nero d’Avola and frappato is “pleasantly funky yet alive in the glass.”

2012 Arianna Occhipinti I.G.T. Sicilia SP68 ($28). A similar blend, the SP68 proves to be “surprisingly complex for a wine intended to be drunk young.”

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2011 COS I.G.T. Sicilia Pithos Rosso ($33). Aged and fermented in terra-cotta amphorae, this “flamboyantly fragrant” wine features distinct umami flavors.