Lamb stew with rhubarb: Flavors of the Persian Empire

Persian cooking knows few boundaries, said Louisa Shafia in The New Persian Kitchen (Ten Speed). Spread by conquest and trade, this ancient cuisine is “a global treasure” that has shaped food traditions throughout the world.

The pairing of meat with tangy fruit is perhaps “the trademark combination” of Persian cuisine. Dishes like chicken with pomegranate and fish with tamarind seem to have been around “since the Greeks began writing about the food of their archrivals some 500 years before Christ.” The lamb stew below comes from Georgia, the former Soviet nation whose Black Sea coast once sat at the heart of the Persian Empire. Taking inspiration from a classic Persian stew, I’ve substituted rhubarb for the plum paste usually used in a Georgian kharcho. The lamb can be replaced by portobello mushrooms to create a vegetarian version. Like the lamb, the mushrooms should be marinated overnight.

Recipe of the week

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Lamb stew with rhubarb and barley

• 2 lbs boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the marinade:

• 1½ cups dry white wine
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp allspice
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 2 tbsp tomato paste

For the stew:

• 4 tbsp grapeseed oil
• 2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
• 1½ cups dry white wine
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp allspice
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• ¾ cup pearled barley
• 6 cups water
• 1 lb rhubarb, finely diced

For the garnish:

• ¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 bunch cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, or a mix, coarsely chopped
• Crushed red pepper flakes

Soak lamb in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain and dry thoroughly. Place lamb in a baking dish. Season with 2 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper. In a small bowl, whisk together marinade ingredients. Pour marinade over lamb, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Drain lamb. In a large stockpot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and add lamb. Cook, stirring occasionally, until meat is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in wine, garlic, allspice, coriander, tomato paste, and barley. Add water and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for about 1½ hours, until barley and lamb are tender.

Add rhubarb and cook for 15 minutes, until rhubarb is just soft but still intact. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowls and splash each serving with 2 tbsp lemon juice, a scattering of herbs, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Serves 6.