Dining in Houston: The locavore craze hits Texas

Forty years ago, the closest thing to a locavore restaurant in Houston was a popular sandwich shop known for piling on the bean sprouts, said Patricia Sharpe in Texas Monthly. Today, all of the city’s best new restaurants share a devotion to the inventive use of locally harvested ingredients.

Oxheart Husband-and-wife owners Justin Yu and Karen Man work in an open kitchen at Oxheart, pulling out tweezers to finish certain inventions. “Some of their creations are wild, like cucumber-spiked beef tartare under a crystal-clear aspic lid.” By contrast, the persimmon, squash, and almond soup is sublime in its simplicity. 1302 Nance St., (832) 830-8592

Roost Chef Kevin Naderi is a “big talent.” At tiny but welcoming Roost, he puts together an endlessly creative international menu but can’t keep the bulk of his diners from starting with the same dish—roasted cauliflower and pine nuts in miso dressing, crowned with “surreally waving” bonito flakes. 1972 Fairview St., (713) 523-7667

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Underbelly “Chris Shepherd is the Mario Batali of Houston—a big, brawny, passionate advocate for the city.” At his sprawling modern farmhouse, he champions local fishermen’s bycatch and celebrates homespun culinary traditions right down to his Mama’s zucchini bread. 1100 Westheimer Rd., (713) 528-9800