Sancerre: Give it the bronze

I won’t try to tell you that Sancerre should be more exalted than champagne or white burgundy, said John Mariani in Bloomberg.com. But among France’s dry whites, it surely “deserves to take the bronze.” Remarkably consistent in quality, this Loire Valley sauvignon blanc “gives more sheer happiness” than any other challenger you can name.

2010 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($16–$22). An ideal soil mix allows winemaker Pascal Jolivet to create an “enchanting, very versatile” Sancerre with “a fresh, spicy nose.”

2010 Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre ($20–$22). “Light ginger notes” distinguish this elegant Sancerre from a very old wine family.

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2010 Baron de Ladoucette Sancerre “Comte Lafond” ($28–$36). This estate’s Sancerres are known for flowery aromas and “well-knit spices and acids.”