Rosé: A few ‘serious’ choices

It just might be possible that a fine, dry, chilled rosé is “the best of everything in wine,” said Richard Nalley in ForbesLife. Summer is its season, of course, and summer’s hedonistic seductions seem to have grown with it on the same vine. Choose well, though, and a rosé can be “serious”—“refined, tightly balanced, and intensely flavorful.”

2011 Mastroberardino Lacrimarosa Italy ($17). The “vibrancy and medium-bodied firmness” of this wine from southern Italy make it a perfect choice when one diner has seafood and the other orders steak.

2010 Antica Terra Erratica Oregon ($50). This “silky” rosé “captures the genie-in-a-bottle perfume and intensity of a fine pinot noir.”

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2011 Château D’Esclans France ($27). “Don’t let the pale salmon color fool you”: This rising entry from a young Provençal brand packs seriously complex flavor.