Recipe of the week: Ikan sumbat (Chili fried fish)

To be a citizen of Ipoh, Malaysia, is “to know and love food,” said Jayanthi Daniel in Saveur. Revered for its Chinese cooking, the city also effortlessly blends Malay and Punjabi influences into most every meal. This pan-fried fish is usually made with stingray filets, but any 6- to 10-inch whole fish will do.

Ikan sumbat (Chili fried fish)

1¼ oz tamarind paste

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2 tbsp small dried shrimp, reconstituted and drained

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 red Holland chili, roughly chopped

½ small yellow onion, roughly chopped

½ cup canola oil

1½ tsp dried shrimp paste

1 tbsp sugar

1½ tsp paprika

1 tsp sriracha chili sauce

salt, to taste

2 small branzino, black sea bass, or bluefish, gutted and cleaned

2 lime wedges

Bring tamarind paste and ½ cup water to boil in saucepan, stirring until paste dissolves. Pour through fine strainer into a bowl and set aside. Put shrimp, garlic, chili, and onion in food processor and process until smooth; set chili mixture aside.

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a skillet over medium-high heat; add dried shrimp paste and, using a spoon, mash paste with oil. Cook, stirring, until fragrant (about 2 minutes). Add chili mixture; cook, stirring, until mixture is no longer raw. Add tamarind sauce, sugar, paprika, sriracha, and salt, and cook, stirring, until thick. Remove from heat; transfer chili paste to bowl.

Wipe skillet clean, add remaining oil, and return to high heat. Using spoon, stuff fish cavities with chili paste, and season with salt and pepper. Fry fish in skillet, turning once, until cooked through, 10–12 minutes. Squeeze lime over fish. Serves 4.