Dining in Steinbeck country: Time to envy the Joads?

California’s Great Central Valley—the most productive agricultural region in the world—has long been a draw for migrant laborers, said Gerald Haslam in Saveur. In The Grapes of Wrath, John Steinbeck painted it as the other California—“not the one travel agents advertise.” Yet the valley can be a “great place to eat.” Over time, immigrant populations have created a rich mix of cuisines, and chefs are drawn by the proximity of farm-fresh ingredients.

Grandmarie’s Chicken Pie Shop For 82 years, this Fresno diner has found ways to keep people coming back for its signature chicken pies, starting with the breakfast menu’s chicken-pie omelet. 861 E. Olive Ave., (559) 237-5042

Noriega Hotel This 1893 Bakersfield hotel turned restaurant is a go-to spot for “raucous family-style meals” of shepherd-style Basque dishes. The rib-sticking fare includes cabbage soup with beans, sliced pickled tongue, crispy spare ribs, and a famous oxtail stew. 525 Sumner St., (661) 322-8419

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Mulvaney’s B & L Inside an old Sacramento firehouse, chef Patrick Mulvaney “takes inspiration from the valley’s bounty” when creating such upscale American fare as short-rib ravioli and chestnut and cauliflower soup. 1215 19th St., (916) 441-6022