Standout 2009 rosés

In general, French wines made from grapes grown in 2009 are being called the “vintage of the century,” said Dave McIntyre in The Washington Post. But the vintage’s Achilles’ heel is rosé. “Last year’s near-perfect growing conditions” resulted in rich, opulent reds. Unfortunately, in the case of rosé, the most prized vintages tend to be “racy and sleek, not rich and opulent.” With so many of this year’s rosés tasting “flabby and almost sweet,” I appreciated those that stood out even more.

2009 Mas de la Rouvière Bandol ($23)

“Exotic from the first sniff,” this complex, small-batch wine is filled with “effusive aromas of pomegranate and herbs” that leap from the glass.

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2009 Château Montaud Rosé Côtes de Provence ($12)

“Pale pink, light, fresh, and delicate,” this rosé combines a “glint of Mediterranean sunlight and a whiff of wild herbs.”