Recipe of the week: Tapas: The Spanish way to eat just about anything

Spanish tapas trace their origins to bars in the southern Andalusia region, where a free small tapa—usually a piece of sliced cold meat or cheese—was considered a worthy complement for a drink, said Simone and Inés Ortega in The Book of Tapas (Phaidon). “According to culinary legend, these tapas were used to cover wine glasses to keep the aroma in and to keep the flies and insects out.” Indeed, the word “tapa” originally meant “cover.”

Today the term simply refers to “small portions of any of the dishes that make up Spain’s wide and varied cuisine”—and that can mean pretty much anything. Tapas can be hot or cold. They can be eaten with fingers, a fork, or bread. Tapas can be as simple as “marinated olives or potato chips,” but also as involved and complex as a delicate terrine or slow-cooked meat. They are still served in bars, but also “at home, when guests arrive.” One thing that hasn’t changed: “Nothing goes better with a glass of good wine or a nice cold beer.”

Recipes of the week

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Ensalada de Champioñes con Aceitunas

(mushroom and olive salad)

1 lb 2 oz large mushrooms

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tbsp olive oil

½ red or green bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

Generous 2 cups tomato sauce, bottled or homemade

Generous ¾ cup black olives, pitted

Cloves garlic, very finely chopped

Salt and pepper

Wash mushrooms in cold water with dash of lemon juice, pat dry, and trim stems so they are all same size. Heat oil in skillet or frying pan over medium heat. Add bell pepper and mushrooms, and pan-fry, stirring occasionally.

As they begin to soften, stir in tomato sauce, olives, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to boil, turn heat to low, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and serve warm, or cool completely and serve cold. Serves 6.

Pincho de Carne Adobada

(marinated meat pinchos)

1 tsp paprika

1 garlic clove, crushed

Pinch oregano

1 lb 5 oz tender boneless beef or lamb fillets, cut into bite-size cubes

Olive oil

Salt

Mix paprika, garlic, oregano, and a little water in a deep bowl, and beat with a fork. Add meat and stir, adding more water if necessary, until completely covered. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, up to 4 hours. Drain thoroughly and let come to room temperature before cooking. Thread meat onto 6 skewers. Heat ridged cast-iron skillet, frying pan, or griddle over high heat until very hot. Brush skillet with a little oil, add skewers, and cook, turning occasionally, until meat is cooked to your liking and slightly charred on edges. Work in batches, if necessary. Remove skewers from pan and sprinkle with salt before serving. Serves 6.