Brunello accepts no substitutes

Brunello di Montalcino was long “plagued by a scandal that wouldn’t go away,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. By law, Brunello must be made from 100 percent Sangiovese grapes, but many makers were accused of introducing other grape varieties. The inquiry ended with makers voting to retain the 100 percent decree. We recently tasted 20 bottles from the 2004 vintage that fit the bill, and these stood out.

Conti Costanti Brunello di Monalcino 2004 (Italy, $75).

This “elegant” wine epitomizes Brunello di Montalcino, with “pure, focused bitter-cherry flavors buttressed by an underlying earthiness.”

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Le Potazzine (Gorelli) Brunello di Montalcino 2004 (Italy, $70). Complex yet “light-bodied,” this wine has mineral notes and an enjoyably spicy bitter-cherry flavor.

Pertimali di Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2004 (Italy, $70). Intense but “graceful, with bright cherry and mineral flavors.”