2007 Châteauneufs: Fabulous or too fruity?

If you like fruit-bomb wines, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times, “you’ll love” the 2007 vintages of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These “rough-and-tumble” wines from southern Provence can be a bit overbearing, like a good-natured dog that’s occasionally “too friendly.” Wine guru Robert M. Parker Jr. called the 2007 Châteauneufs “a truly historic and profoundly great vintage.” I liked them less, but did find a few that were extraordinary.

Domaine de Monpertuis Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée ­Classique 2007 ($45) This “powerfully fruity” wine really sings. Distinct mineral flavors. Even at $45, we named it “best value.”

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin 2007 ($85) Much different from our top choice, this nicely balanced wine delivered both lush flavors and a complex structure.

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Domaine Raymond Usseglio Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Girard 2007 ($40) Also well balanced, though with softer fruit flavors.