For decades, Valpolicella had a well-deserved reputation as “a thin, insipid wine,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Finally, though, the Italian winemaking renaissance has come to Valpolicella. Grapes from the original Valpolicella zone are now designated Classico, while those aged an additional year are Superiore. Although these wines are “all over the map” stylistically, delicious bargains can be found. Our Times panel recently tasted 25. This trio topped the list.
Vaona Valpolicella Classico, 2007
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Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafaèl, 2006
($12) “Best value.” Well balanced; aromas and flavors of flowers and cherries.
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