Valpolicella: Not always mediocre

For decades, Valpolicella had a well-deserved reputation as “a thin, insipid wine,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Finally, though, the Italian winemaking ­renaissance has come to Valpolicella. Grapes from the original Valpolicella zone are now designated Classico, while those aged an additional year are Superiore. Although these wines are “all over the map” stylistically, delicious bargains can be found. Our Times panel recently tasted 25. This trio topped the list.

Vaona Valpolicella Classico, 2007
($16) Bright and vibrant, well balanced. Flavors of tart cherry and flowers.

Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafaèl, 2006
($12) “Best value.” Well ­balanced; aromas and flavors of flowers and cherries.

Zenato Valpolicella Classico Superiore, 2006
($12) Big and chewy.