Recipe of the week: Pork stew from San Francisco’s new-wave butchers

The craft of butchering meat is making a comeback. Some butchers are also acting as cooking consultants, offering advice on how particular cuts of meat should be prepared.

Butchery is back, said Kristen Donnelly in Food & Wine. A new generation of meat lovers, tired of the homogenized tastes common in our “age of industrial meat production,” is getting back to basics. Leading the movement are butchers “reviving the traditional approach” to the craft, buying whole animals locally—and butchering them “humanely and eco-consciously.”

These butchers also act as cooking consultants, frequently offering courses on how to prepare particular cuts. Tia Harrison, Melanie Eisemann, and Angela Wilson are co-owners of Avedano’s restaurant in San Francisco, where head butcher Harrison breaks down a pig each week. Using a pork shoulder, she cooks a stew with pleasantly bitter ancho chilies.

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