Feature

Sherry: Rediscovering an age-old drink

Sherry, long ignored, is coming back. Here are four sherries worth trying.

Sherry is the perfect drink to have before dinner, said David Wondrich in Saveur, “or after it, or really anytime at all.” Many drinkers have come to regard this fortified wine made in or near the Spanish city of Jerez as somewhat “arcane”—nice to know about, but not really worth ordering.

Sherry’s complex classification system may be “partly to blame.” All sherries start out as fortified white wine aged in oak. Then they’re divided into three categories: pale, dry sherries called flor, which include finos, manzanillas, and amontillados; darker, richer olorosos; and very sweet dessert sherries called PX­—for Pedro Ximenez, the grape variety used in them.

Today sherry is “getting a second look.” Its mellow flavor makes it “deeply pleasurable to drink,” and and its old-school charm can’t be beat. Here are four worth trying:

González Byass Tio Pepe Fino ($18) “The benchmark fino. The very essence of dryness.”

Lustau Solera Reserve Dry Oloroso ‘Don Nuño’ ($28) A classic from a 112-year-old winery.

Sandeman Character Medium Dry Amontillado ($15) Briny, acidic, perfectly balanced.

Williams & Humbert Dry Sack 15 Year Sweet Old Oloroso ($25) This “perfect dessert wine” is not in the least bit dry.

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