French rosés: Think pink

Provence, the Mediterranean hill country in southern France, is still “king of rosé,” said Joe Czerwinski in Wine Enthusiast. These three Provençal rosés are exception

Provence, the Mediterranean hill country in southern France, is still “king of rosé,” said Joe Czerwinski in Wine Enthusiast. More than 80 percent of the wine produced here is rosé, with vintners using different blends of red grapes to create wines in a variety of shades, from pale pink to darker-hued.

Provençal wineries are also using new techniques and equipment to create fresher and lighter wines. These new rosés are “versatile at the table,” and can be served either as apéritifs or partnered with fish or meat. Three exceptional Provençal rosés:

Domaine Sorin 2007 Tetra Amata ($12) “A treat.” More complex than most Provençal rosés, with smoky aromas and a ripe, cherry-berry flavor.

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Château Minuty 2007 Cuvée Prestige ($28) An almost “feral” wine with a minerally taste and fine acidity.

Domaines Ott 2007 Château de Selle ($42) “It’s expensive,” but the high quality is undeniable. A long finish offsets the “dramatic freshness.”